Friday, April 22, 2005

Helping in Ahangama

It's 12:45 pm on Friday and Jesper and I just returned from Ahangama where we met Ian, the local manager of the Galle restaurant Galleria. We spoke to Ian a week or so ago about locating a small village to help out. He suggest looking into Ahangama where he lived close by. We arranged to meet him there this morning.

We arrived early to walk the road for a km or two and returned along the beach. We met some friendly people along the way and saw the usual crumbling brick and block remains of buildings and homes. These villages further outside of the bigger cities don't get the help they need so it looked like a good place to inquire about. We met Ian at a beach club a half hour early as we were both early.

He introduced us to a couple who in turn led us to the remains of their beach side brick home. There was a tent there to house their remaining possessions but they slept at night in shelters across the road. She has a small boutique business at the beach club but it is now nearly non-existent due to a lack of tourists. In August they say things should pick up.

We hire a van to drive us to a plot of land they have purchased for 150,000Rs ($1,500). Jesper has some funds donated by his company to use in a small village and we're thinking we've found the right area. The true problem however is handing over cash in situations like these. Ian told us the best thing to do is to just purchase the materials and labor ourselves. Sounds good, but how do you do that when you leave in 1 week? Who can you trust locally?

Ian said he would manage the money and it can be a risk, but we keep in mind that we approached him originally and he has a very good job. Jesper is still deciding on how to handle it but thinks giving Ian enough money to start building a well and purchasing enough concrete, block, rock, and gravel for the foundation work is a good start. This will cost about 25,000Rs ($250) including labor. The entire house, well, and bathroom will cost about 400,000Rs ($4,000). Once we see some progress before leaving on the the 28th and pictures sent of continued progress then more money will be sent.

(Warning: Rant ahead) There is just so much to do here it can be overwhelming. I had a talk with Paul, the local GC coordinator, and we both agreed you have to choose your battles and it's better to complete one project than running around completing nothing. I further believe that GC just takes the money we give, sends us to Sri Lanka blindly without caring how the effort is handled here while Paul and Michael, who are trying what they know best, use us as mere manual laborers.

This IS how things are mostly done in Sri Lanka but with our western standards of organization and utilizing the best machinery possible for a job, it gets a bit frustrating. Our effort could be better used by using our fund raising abilities and organizational skills than as mere laborers. We DO want to help by getting our hands dirty but we could be moving forward by orders of magnitude with just ONE concrete mixer, and a few small backhoes or similar machines. These things are available in Sri Lanka but you have to understand their way of life and thinking.

In the western world, we organize, build quickly, and earn quickly so we can enjoy the finer things in life. In a third world country that line of reasoning just doesn't exist. Why hurry? What are you going to buy? Where are you going to buy it? You can't leave Sri Lanka without a foreign sponsor or $10,000 in the bank so what's the rush? Just take 10 people and move this pile of boulders 40 yards which will take all morning. It's maddening at times and a serious reorganization needs to be done from the bottom up. I see a for-profit company, Global Crossroad, sending over-charged volunteers to Sri Lanka to help while Paul and Michael just view us as manual laborers who need to work harder.

Paul and Michael, who are brothers, are doing a great job and are on leave with their jobs in Sri Lanka to organize this effort. We respect them and their efforts very much but there is room for improvement. To their extreme credit they do listen and put into effect nearly all we have suggested. We have suggested they overlap volunteer 2-week efforts so that all is not lost every 2 weeks. We suggested that volunteers arrive at least 2 days early to adjust to the time and temperature as much as possible. People getting off a plane half way around the world and getting up at 7:00 the next morning to do very tough work takes its toll on a lot of people. It is getting better and will continue to do so only if we help them with recommendations.

Some volunteers here seem to forget that the end goal is to get these people into good permanent housing and not to stress over the organizational skills of Global Crossroad or having someone make your stay more pleasant. I've heard too many poorly-aimed complaints about housing and heat and a million other excuses as to why people cut out early or whatever. There have been great examples as well of people not being able to cope with the job site heat and turned that into an opportunity to do some refugee camp work instead of sitting about and sulking. Most do give it their best which is great. But, if you don't or just simply can't then move on and either find something useful to do or keep quiet. Disgruntled talk in the midst of difficult work is tantamount to mutiny in my opinion. We have committed ourselves to a project and almost as importantly, each other. Half the reason I am able to drag myself around the work site in the late afternoon is because I see Jesper or James or John or Paul or Lottie or Steve or Ruth or Tracy or any of the other volunteers giving it their all. Charity only takes you so far in 120 degree humidity. Ok, that's my rant on ranters.

Yesterday, we met Ken and Carolyn back at Janaka House for a scheduled trip to drop off the donated items at the camp. We all took a van and there were about 13 of us total. We were greeted with the same warmth as before and piled our goods under the main tarp. The local leader, Cheeny, had us write down our brought items and sign our name next to them. (They have handwritten bookkeeping for everything here. You get a hand written receipt for everything. In the grocery store each item purchased is written out and filed away somewhere never to be seen again I'm sure.)

After writing out our donations we gave about half our items out to the local children. It was an exciting few minutes. The rest was stored for other children who may not be present or to hand out again at a later time. More hot tea was given to us, a few bought lace made by the women in the tents, and we toured some of the new tents. Inside the tents we were able to see the tables which our previous group funded the purchase of but was completely started and organized by Ken and Carolyn. It was a good site to see as they had nothing before to keep their possessions off the dirt and mud. We visited for a little while and a few boys started an impromptu cricket game with some newly acquired tennis balls. This was briefly interrupted by a loud machine being carried down the road and spraying a large white cloud of mosquito insecticide everywhere. This excited everyone and we all held our noses. Except Jesper who said it was just an oil rich mixture in a 2-stroke motor. Placebo or not, the locals got a kick out of it.

After the camp we were found by our tuktuk driver from the other day and he helped us locate the Land Surveyors office so that we could purchase some Galle District maps. We ended up not needing them but they will be nice to take home. After emailing and lunch we ended up back at Janaka to tell Tracy to come join us for dinner that night. She already had accepted dinner with Santa at his home but said she'd try to come by after. I told her those dinners can take a while and since she didn't show by 11:00 pm we figured it was to be expected and went to bed.

I believe we will just try and help this one family in Ahangama if not others over the next few days and perhaps some local shopping mixed in as well. I haven't bought anything and I better grab a few things because I know how these departures can sneak up on you.

The sting of our friends leaving stings a little less but my desire to see them again remains the same. I believe Pam said this type of close-knit work experience is equivelant to roughly 6 months in the real world. Most of us have never done this type of work before but a few have and we value their thoughts a lot. One great thing about it all is I feel very confident in moving forward on my own in the future when the call arises.

I have certainly learned a lot about not just Sinhalese culture but other western cultures as well. I've been told that someone like myself in another area such as Canada or the UK would have been on many many trips by now instead of just this one. In the US we have a very ego-centric society. It's easy to understand though since most movies, music and people are always trying to make it in "America." How can we be expected to look outward when everyone else seems to be coming to us? I understand our need to include others in our decisions which virtually effect everything, but I hope they understand when you have millions of people trying to enter your borders every year illegally or otherwise, its easy to think this is the place to be.

Jesper said the USA's self-reliance, mostly in thought, also accounts why the US is always head and shoulders above the rest of the world in terms of money, might and acheiving goals. We have a core set of values and stick to them. We don't look elsewhere for approval or acceptance. We are our own island. This is also the same reason why some people hate us. There is balance, there is a way to bridge the current divide and I believe I've found my own path. I hope you are able to join me and travel to lands such as Sri Lanka. Get outside of airports, hotels, and shopping malls. Take risk and reward your soul.

Talk to you soon....

-Chris

Wednesday, April 20, 2005

Goodbye GC...

It's 1:00 pm in Galle and it's been my first unscheduled day in over three weeks. For those that know me that's saying a lot. I don't like schedules! Jesper and I left Global Crossroad and the new crew at Janaka House last night after our last day of work.

We spent 3 full days showing them what our group had learned and just wanted to try and get them off on the right foot. It was sad for us to say goodbye to Asanta, Santa, Bandula, Paul, Michael and the rest of the local workers. When I confirmed to them it was our last day, the looks in their faces nearly broke my heart. "Oh! Why? Why? Big Problem?" Santa asked.

I explained it was time for us to go and we had accomplished what we set out to do and we wanted to try and help with other forms of relief effort further east. It was sad to see those smiles one last time but we all shared quick and intense hugs and handshakes. I told them I'd be back in a few days as I wanted to give them something for being so genuine with us and working so hard with us. Jesper and I definitely agreed the locals had picked up their work pace as our groups own pace did throughout the project. I guess they wanted to see how dedicated we were to them before dedicating themselves to us. It was a form of respect they showed us by being there every minute, solving any issue we had, picking up slack where need be and working with us side by side to the very end. It was the ultimate form of team work and show of respect I've ever been a part of.

We came back to Janaka House after work on Tuesday, showered up, had a few Ole's (cream soda), went into Galle for email checks, came back for dinner and then grabbed a tuktuk to the Tuc Tuc Beach Resort a few kms east of Janaka. Don't ask me about the "Tuc Tuc" spelling. That's the only place I've seen a C used instead of K but the owners are Italian. Whatever that means. On paper, the owners are the local Sinhalese hotel operators because only Sinhalese are allowed to own businesses here. So, every operator says he is part owner but I'm sure you get the picture.

We were given the perfect tuktuk ride to the hotel and we were greeted with hugs and smiles by the staff and all their friends in the courtyard bar of the beach resort. This is also the same place where Jesper and his BC buddy Corey stayed their first week in SL before April 1. This is also the same place, and room, where they were awakened in the middle of the night to Manoche, the local owner, pounding on their door yelling, "Tsunami coming! Run! Hurry!" This is of course the 2nd Sumatra quake which occurred while I was asleep in the San Francisco Hyatt.

Jesper and Corey ran about 1 km inland before most stopped to climb a very small shrine saying it would protect them. Jesper and Corey didn't agree and continued on through the jungle several more km's until they came upon a house on a more elevated area. A family invited them in with complete acceptance and hospitality despite a lack of everything we hold dear. They told him to come back whenever he needed to. My running shoes positioned at our hotel door serve as a reminder. I hope they stay in place as my Tri-pack fortunately has.

I'm pretty sure we're the only westerners staying here if not the only guests at all. It's a 6 month old hotel with is pretty nice. Teak floors, 50 meters from the beach, 2nd floor balcony with lounge chairs just outside room #4. There's also a flat roof on top just like at Tiny. Pre-tsunami prices were 5,500 Rs a night, but now it's just 1,500 for a double. That's about $15 for two beds, hot water and gorgeous views. We are definitely in the right place.

After consulting the first decent mirror with lighting I've seen in a while I've concluded that I've lost a lot of weight! Jesper agreed, which surprised me. All my shorts and pants would fall off me without a belt. I didn't think I had that much to lose, but it does come off here! I don't have a scale but I wouldn't be surprised if I haven't dropped 15 lbs. I eat everything I can within reason but the work and heat is so strenuous that you just sweat everything out. It should be a great kick-start into a summer workout routine.

I have heard from and of a few of our friends returning home. Zach, Lottie, and Ruth have all thankfully arrived safely. Zach is in India for another 8 months before returning home to NM. He says it is difficult adjusting to life there! I can't imagine if Sri Lanka doesn't prepare you what would. A few have mentioned how difficult it can be trying to relate to those around you at home. Jobs seem trivial and full of emptiness while longing for something simpler and perhaps more real and concrete. I'm sure we'll all adjust to our lives eventually the same way we adjusted here, but certainly with a lasting and different perspective.

Today we are trying to find a good local map so we can scout out the villages to the east soon and to let our bodies heal a little. Tomorrow I will finally be taking all the donated supplies I've brought to a camp and school. It's weird that I still have all these items but I honestly haven't had the time. If we aren't working we are in a van going to Yala or Kandy which is also non-stop schedules. The only way to have donated items at this point was to take a work day off from the site or to use your one day off for that.

So, tomorrow I will be meeting Ken and Carolyn at Janaka around 9:30 so they can take me to a few good places which can use my families donated items. Ken and Carolyn also have been asked by the BBC to take along a video camera to film their trip. Nobody really knew this until about a week into our project when they asked if I could figure out their camera. I said they came to the right guy. I'm sure they've captured a lot of great video by now and hope I can see it someday. The piece is going to be just them as they were interviewed before they left home and will also have a follow-up interview upon their return. It should be great as they are great people.

Today officially starts my road of independent relief work but I've been here for 3 weeks now and it doesn't seem nearly as daunting as just arriving in Sri Lanka did. It's amazing what one can become accustomed to, as well as enjoy. I've concentrated on going to bed and making sure all my work clothes were ready for the next day so much that that routine had become my life. I couldn't see past it really until recently. What now? What's next? I feel there are endless possibilities awaiting me now but even scarier is that they are probable.

I'm not sure what the next week will hold for us but I have absolutely no doubt we are in the right place.

Be good.

-Chris

Sunday, April 17, 2005

Janaka House, Sri Lanka

It's Sunday 8:10 pm and Jesper and I checked into Janaka House yesterday. We finished our first work day with the new crew today. Another good group of people but it just isn't the same to us for obvious reasons. We feel we have a specific mission with trying to pass along our collective lessons learned and then we're heading down the road to find our own relief.

There is a shortage of construction materials now due to the holidays and they plan on resuming making them tomorrow. We filled in the last open foundation with dirt and dug 2 septic tank holes which is always messy work. The new crew had an introduction to Jesper the manimal today as well. Fortunately, some things never change.

That's all for now really. I'm tired from my Kandy travels and look forward to bed right after I sign off here. Half the new group went to Lighthouse for dinner and half stayed in. All GC volunteers are at Janaka House now as Tiny House was having some trouble meeting our needs.

Be back soon.....

-Chris