Back from Kandy!
It is 4:44 pm and I am in the "free" internet cafe in Galle which now charges after catching on to their newfound popularity. Let's see, the last 3 days or so have been moving so fast. Way too fast. I miss my friends. I miss Lottie, Zach, John, Katie, Corey, Ruth, Pam, Paul, Monty, Keith and everyone. My left brain knew the time was coming on Thursday and Friday when vans and rented cars would carry everyone to their next great journeys but when it actually happened it was over in the blink of an eye.
Friday morning I was sitting in the carport of Tiny House while most were stalling for time and I stood up hugged Pam, Ruth and Lottie one last time. Exchanged a few last second words which always fail to hit the mark and climbed into our van with Loyal, Abbey, Alex, Krista, Corey, and Jesper. I cannot describe the feeling I had leaving those people behind. It was a very quiet ride for a while. At some point either Jesper or I started singing in an attempt to pick our spirits up. It helped break the tension but our minds were elsewhere. I certainly hope everyone returned home safely. We dropped everyone off at hotels in Colombo a few hours later as traffic was very light due to New Years. Jesper and I headed for the train station and had to cross the pedestrian bridge over the street to reach the station. Our prepaid driver wanted to know if we had money. I assured him we had plenty for the train and thanked him for his concern.
Jesper and I had a few hours wait on the platform before our 3:25 train and had a great conversation about the preceeding days and weeks. We finally hopped a 1st class observation car to Kandy and pulled out right on time. It was 200Rs for a 2.5 hour train ride thru the beautiful hill country and into the much cooler climate of Kandy. This was actually my first ever train ride and I loved it. The trains are the old red British trains I'm sure you've seen photos of on the news from the tsunami. It's a great way to travel in Sri Lanka and there's nothing like writing in your journal next to a large open window while the beautiful countryside rolls by your side.
The monsoon hit as we pulled into the Kandy station and we stood around for about 5 minutes waiting for it to let up. This was difficult as child beggars no higher than my thighs were constantly shaking coins in their hands and pointing to their mouths for food. It's a difficult site and a new one for us but expected. Not to say these children aren't desperately in need of care but they are trained by nearby adults to do this soul wrenching work. The rain stopped and Jesper grabbed a tuktuk on the road due to me being anchored by my backpack and 45lb. duffle. WHY DIDN'T I LEAVE THAT IN GALLE?!!! Anyway, we headed to Hotel Suisse, checked into our $74 room with a view of Lake Kandy, AC, HOT water and clean sheets. AHHHHHHHHHH!
We unloaded our gear, prepared the laundry service bag (I was determined to start my next 2 weeks with a fresh load of clothes not beaten against a rock), and hit the town looking for a meal. Everything was locked down tight except one place. Food City with a KFC inside. Sweet! We ordered everything. And ate it too. It tasted just like home with the exception of the iced cappucinno which was just cappucino. Back at the hotel we decided to check with the front desk to see if anyone we knew was in Kandy. What luck! John from the UK was here and we left a note for him. Ten minutes later our phone rang and John had returned and was at our door in another 2. We had a great reunion in our room for about an hour and it was really great seeing someone who you thought was a memory. John is a graduate of Cambridge University with a degree in civil engineering and one of the hardest workers on our crew. We agreed to meet around 8 for the breakfast buffet and hit the hay around 11:30.
Up at 7:00 I read some of my journal trying to reconnect with the past few surreal days. In my head it seemed distant but in my heart the memories were very fresh and all to real. I struggle to make sense of it all. The quick friendships and bonds mixed with the emotional yet rewarding work which all comes to a grinding halt way way before you are prepared for it to end. We meet John for breakfast over another great hour or so conversation and part ways, again, in the hallway. "Parting is such sweet sorrow." Blah. I feel there's not much sweet to it these days. I promise to make the reunion in London in a month or so as its been rumored and John heads up and we head down. Bye John.
Jesper and I grab a tuktuk outside and agree with the driver on 1,750 Rs for a day of touring Kandy and the surrounding areas. We first head to a photo store so I can empty my memory cards. This is difficult during the holiday as most everything is closed. I find a shop with it's metal barrier parted and knock on the glass doors. A man approaches hesitantly and I explain my situation of full memory cards and a days worth of photo ops ahead of me. He says, "ok, no problem!" and lets me in quickly. A nice man who is proud of running the largest print shop in Kandy. While my CD burns he shows me the upstairs office full of G4's and laser printers. I'm actually jealous. He's just returned from 2 years in Dubai where the money flows like oil and he explains his frustrations with the Sri Lankan systems and government. "The uneducated rule the educated here." he explained. They say the Buddhist statues stand because of their power against the tsunmai. He laughs at this and says no it's because they are round. I smile and agree. If only the masses could hear him speak. I see a commonality in our conversation with most cultures. The single man knows the truth but mass consciousness is the fool.
I thanked him for the CD and gave 300Rs for the burn. I find Jesper on the street pointing around with some stranger in an attempt to locate me. I've been gone a while. We jump in the tuktuk and off to Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage 46km away. We stop halfway for a delicious Necto which is like bottled kool-aid/fruit punch. We take pictures with the local Necto fiends and have a few laughs. We love Necto!
We arrive at Pinnewala just in time to see the elephants bath in the river. There must be 3 dozen of them of all sizes. It was awesome. Our driver VJ hussled us down to the waters edge where we snapped photos with a baby elephant. We had to move soon after for the herd to climb the hill and cross the road to their grazing pastures. Buckets of water were thrown on a few dry backs and up the hill they came. Wow. The first one had it's front right foot missing so it set the pace. Slowly. One after the other they lumbered up the hill and within mere feet of us on a high concrete sidewalk. The last one had manacles and chains all around it. It was the "nasty" one and was treated differently.
We followed them down an alley like the running of the bulls in Pamplona with about one hundred other visitors. The mix here is about 40% western. The most we've seen anywhere by far. Lots of tour buses. We go into the main gates across the road behind the herd and head up to watch them in the pastures. We take pictures with a blind tusked elephant. That was neat. Our driver then takes us down to an area where they are normally fed but we see the last "nasty" elephant being worked on with chains extending it's back leg. It's is supposedly getting medical treatment. He leads us closer and I take photos. The trainers say something to our driver and we give them space. I say if they are uncomfortable we'll be happy to go back to the top but for some reason he just hangs around. I change camera settings take another photo of the elephant but my flash goes off and things get interesting.
The trainers start yelling at our driver and he yells back. Jesper and I look at each other blankly. We finally walk off after minutes of the most shouting I've seen in a month. We decide to grab a few Nectos across the street as we wait for the 1:15 feeding. After a refreshing Necto sugar buzz we come back into the park and our driver is confronted by a man. Soonl, Jesper and I are 5 yards aways watching a group of trainers and security guards talk to our driver. I say, "I think he's getting kicked out." Jesper agrees and a minute later he is escorted away. He motions he'll wait for us outside. "No problem." I say with a nod to the side. International incident acheived! We asked one of the guys what he did and his answer was, "Very rude man. Feeding at 1:15." and he pointed to the feeding area. We can take a hint, turned around and walked on.
Five minutes later another park employee makes sure we know about the feeding and leads us to a clearing a few yards past a fence. We are motioned to sit and casually join a few men sitting on a log. We are introduced to a world famous elephant trainer with 25 years of experience which is only passed down thru his family. He told us our driver didn't know what he was doing and failed to follow their rules. We said we just followed him around and had no idea what was going on. They laughed and assured us everything was ok and we took pictures together. They told us that "nasty" elephant was in heat and anything could set it off. It was getting medical attention as well and it was just a touch situation for them. We understood completely and thanked them for their understanding. I'll post the pics of this as soon as I can.
We finally watched the feeding of large milk bottles to the baby elephants and found VJ in the parking lot. He had his version of the story about photos of elephants in chains upset the park officials but that didn't really jive with me as there were elephants in chains all over and they didn't ask for my pictures. Anyway, we made out in the end with a great conversation with the parks leading trainer.
Back on the road to Kandy our driver helped us run a few errands and then on to the Temple of the Tooth. We got barred at the gate for having shorts on. I zipped on my convertible pants and was allowed in but Jesper stayed behind. I was in and out in a few minutes with barefeet and don't really know what I saw but it was a solemn temple with lots of people giving praise inside. Our driver finally dropped us off at the Kandyan Restaurant where we ordered lots of food.
Back to the hotel for a clean-up and we walked down the road around Lake Kandy to the Y.M.B.A. for an hour long presentation of the Kandyan Dancing Troupe. It was a series of about 10 local dances in full costume with drummers, acrobatics, spinning plates and fire walking. Pretty cool for 300Rs. While inside the monsoon thundered outside so it certainly added authenticity to the show. The rain had stopped as if on cue and we made our way back to the hotel as all internet cafes were still closed.
We went to find the dinner buffet before close at 10 in the hotel and who do we run into but Monty and Keith from the BVI! Weird-o-rama. We had a great little conversation in the hallway with them and said goodbyes, again, to them as well. All these multiple repeated goodbyes is taxing. Dinner was great and we fell asleep soundly around 11 after a long crazy day.
We woke around 5:30 to catch the 6:45 train back to Colombo. It was a pleasant ride with a couple of men who questioned and talked to us the entire way. T-I-R-E-D One of the men was transferring to a Galle train as well and blazed a route thru the crowd for Jesper as I lugged "my damned green bag" up and over 6 train platforms. I waited on the main platform while Jesper purchased tickets and then they came running back at me as we grabbed our gear and back over a few platforms onto a standing room only 2nd class car to Galle. It was an interesting ride but a fun one. We sang and shared water with a few around us and had smiles all around. We were very tired pulling into Galle but I'm sure we made a few friends along the way. Handshakes at every stop.
This all happened just few hours ago so I'm running on a bottle of Necto and refreshing swim at Unawatuna beach. We checked into Janaka House first and grabbed a few baked goods before hitting the beach. That's all for now. We're off to Janaka to meet the new group who we will be working with in the morning. Jesper and I are sure we'll only stick around a few days before finding other projects of interest. I'll let you know how it goes.
Be safe and take care until next time!
Friday morning I was sitting in the carport of Tiny House while most were stalling for time and I stood up hugged Pam, Ruth and Lottie one last time. Exchanged a few last second words which always fail to hit the mark and climbed into our van with Loyal, Abbey, Alex, Krista, Corey, and Jesper. I cannot describe the feeling I had leaving those people behind. It was a very quiet ride for a while. At some point either Jesper or I started singing in an attempt to pick our spirits up. It helped break the tension but our minds were elsewhere. I certainly hope everyone returned home safely. We dropped everyone off at hotels in Colombo a few hours later as traffic was very light due to New Years. Jesper and I headed for the train station and had to cross the pedestrian bridge over the street to reach the station. Our prepaid driver wanted to know if we had money. I assured him we had plenty for the train and thanked him for his concern.
Jesper and I had a few hours wait on the platform before our 3:25 train and had a great conversation about the preceeding days and weeks. We finally hopped a 1st class observation car to Kandy and pulled out right on time. It was 200Rs for a 2.5 hour train ride thru the beautiful hill country and into the much cooler climate of Kandy. This was actually my first ever train ride and I loved it. The trains are the old red British trains I'm sure you've seen photos of on the news from the tsunami. It's a great way to travel in Sri Lanka and there's nothing like writing in your journal next to a large open window while the beautiful countryside rolls by your side.
The monsoon hit as we pulled into the Kandy station and we stood around for about 5 minutes waiting for it to let up. This was difficult as child beggars no higher than my thighs were constantly shaking coins in their hands and pointing to their mouths for food. It's a difficult site and a new one for us but expected. Not to say these children aren't desperately in need of care but they are trained by nearby adults to do this soul wrenching work. The rain stopped and Jesper grabbed a tuktuk on the road due to me being anchored by my backpack and 45lb. duffle. WHY DIDN'T I LEAVE THAT IN GALLE?!!! Anyway, we headed to Hotel Suisse, checked into our $74 room with a view of Lake Kandy, AC, HOT water and clean sheets. AHHHHHHHHHH!
We unloaded our gear, prepared the laundry service bag (I was determined to start my next 2 weeks with a fresh load of clothes not beaten against a rock), and hit the town looking for a meal. Everything was locked down tight except one place. Food City with a KFC inside. Sweet! We ordered everything. And ate it too. It tasted just like home with the exception of the iced cappucinno which was just cappucino. Back at the hotel we decided to check with the front desk to see if anyone we knew was in Kandy. What luck! John from the UK was here and we left a note for him. Ten minutes later our phone rang and John had returned and was at our door in another 2. We had a great reunion in our room for about an hour and it was really great seeing someone who you thought was a memory. John is a graduate of Cambridge University with a degree in civil engineering and one of the hardest workers on our crew. We agreed to meet around 8 for the breakfast buffet and hit the hay around 11:30.
Up at 7:00 I read some of my journal trying to reconnect with the past few surreal days. In my head it seemed distant but in my heart the memories were very fresh and all to real. I struggle to make sense of it all. The quick friendships and bonds mixed with the emotional yet rewarding work which all comes to a grinding halt way way before you are prepared for it to end. We meet John for breakfast over another great hour or so conversation and part ways, again, in the hallway. "Parting is such sweet sorrow." Blah. I feel there's not much sweet to it these days. I promise to make the reunion in London in a month or so as its been rumored and John heads up and we head down. Bye John.
Jesper and I grab a tuktuk outside and agree with the driver on 1,750 Rs for a day of touring Kandy and the surrounding areas. We first head to a photo store so I can empty my memory cards. This is difficult during the holiday as most everything is closed. I find a shop with it's metal barrier parted and knock on the glass doors. A man approaches hesitantly and I explain my situation of full memory cards and a days worth of photo ops ahead of me. He says, "ok, no problem!" and lets me in quickly. A nice man who is proud of running the largest print shop in Kandy. While my CD burns he shows me the upstairs office full of G4's and laser printers. I'm actually jealous. He's just returned from 2 years in Dubai where the money flows like oil and he explains his frustrations with the Sri Lankan systems and government. "The uneducated rule the educated here." he explained. They say the Buddhist statues stand because of their power against the tsunmai. He laughs at this and says no it's because they are round. I smile and agree. If only the masses could hear him speak. I see a commonality in our conversation with most cultures. The single man knows the truth but mass consciousness is the fool.
I thanked him for the CD and gave 300Rs for the burn. I find Jesper on the street pointing around with some stranger in an attempt to locate me. I've been gone a while. We jump in the tuktuk and off to Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage 46km away. We stop halfway for a delicious Necto which is like bottled kool-aid/fruit punch. We take pictures with the local Necto fiends and have a few laughs. We love Necto!
We arrive at Pinnewala just in time to see the elephants bath in the river. There must be 3 dozen of them of all sizes. It was awesome. Our driver VJ hussled us down to the waters edge where we snapped photos with a baby elephant. We had to move soon after for the herd to climb the hill and cross the road to their grazing pastures. Buckets of water were thrown on a few dry backs and up the hill they came. Wow. The first one had it's front right foot missing so it set the pace. Slowly. One after the other they lumbered up the hill and within mere feet of us on a high concrete sidewalk. The last one had manacles and chains all around it. It was the "nasty" one and was treated differently.
We followed them down an alley like the running of the bulls in Pamplona with about one hundred other visitors. The mix here is about 40% western. The most we've seen anywhere by far. Lots of tour buses. We go into the main gates across the road behind the herd and head up to watch them in the pastures. We take pictures with a blind tusked elephant. That was neat. Our driver then takes us down to an area where they are normally fed but we see the last "nasty" elephant being worked on with chains extending it's back leg. It's is supposedly getting medical treatment. He leads us closer and I take photos. The trainers say something to our driver and we give them space. I say if they are uncomfortable we'll be happy to go back to the top but for some reason he just hangs around. I change camera settings take another photo of the elephant but my flash goes off and things get interesting.
The trainers start yelling at our driver and he yells back. Jesper and I look at each other blankly. We finally walk off after minutes of the most shouting I've seen in a month. We decide to grab a few Nectos across the street as we wait for the 1:15 feeding. After a refreshing Necto sugar buzz we come back into the park and our driver is confronted by a man. Soonl, Jesper and I are 5 yards aways watching a group of trainers and security guards talk to our driver. I say, "I think he's getting kicked out." Jesper agrees and a minute later he is escorted away. He motions he'll wait for us outside. "No problem." I say with a nod to the side. International incident acheived! We asked one of the guys what he did and his answer was, "Very rude man. Feeding at 1:15." and he pointed to the feeding area. We can take a hint, turned around and walked on.
Five minutes later another park employee makes sure we know about the feeding and leads us to a clearing a few yards past a fence. We are motioned to sit and casually join a few men sitting on a log. We are introduced to a world famous elephant trainer with 25 years of experience which is only passed down thru his family. He told us our driver didn't know what he was doing and failed to follow their rules. We said we just followed him around and had no idea what was going on. They laughed and assured us everything was ok and we took pictures together. They told us that "nasty" elephant was in heat and anything could set it off. It was getting medical attention as well and it was just a touch situation for them. We understood completely and thanked them for their understanding. I'll post the pics of this as soon as I can.
We finally watched the feeding of large milk bottles to the baby elephants and found VJ in the parking lot. He had his version of the story about photos of elephants in chains upset the park officials but that didn't really jive with me as there were elephants in chains all over and they didn't ask for my pictures. Anyway, we made out in the end with a great conversation with the parks leading trainer.
Back on the road to Kandy our driver helped us run a few errands and then on to the Temple of the Tooth. We got barred at the gate for having shorts on. I zipped on my convertible pants and was allowed in but Jesper stayed behind. I was in and out in a few minutes with barefeet and don't really know what I saw but it was a solemn temple with lots of people giving praise inside. Our driver finally dropped us off at the Kandyan Restaurant where we ordered lots of food.
Back to the hotel for a clean-up and we walked down the road around Lake Kandy to the Y.M.B.A. for an hour long presentation of the Kandyan Dancing Troupe. It was a series of about 10 local dances in full costume with drummers, acrobatics, spinning plates and fire walking. Pretty cool for 300Rs. While inside the monsoon thundered outside so it certainly added authenticity to the show. The rain had stopped as if on cue and we made our way back to the hotel as all internet cafes were still closed.
We went to find the dinner buffet before close at 10 in the hotel and who do we run into but Monty and Keith from the BVI! Weird-o-rama. We had a great little conversation in the hallway with them and said goodbyes, again, to them as well. All these multiple repeated goodbyes is taxing. Dinner was great and we fell asleep soundly around 11 after a long crazy day.
We woke around 5:30 to catch the 6:45 train back to Colombo. It was a pleasant ride with a couple of men who questioned and talked to us the entire way. T-I-R-E-D One of the men was transferring to a Galle train as well and blazed a route thru the crowd for Jesper as I lugged "my damned green bag" up and over 6 train platforms. I waited on the main platform while Jesper purchased tickets and then they came running back at me as we grabbed our gear and back over a few platforms onto a standing room only 2nd class car to Galle. It was an interesting ride but a fun one. We sang and shared water with a few around us and had smiles all around. We were very tired pulling into Galle but I'm sure we made a few friends along the way. Handshakes at every stop.
This all happened just few hours ago so I'm running on a bottle of Necto and refreshing swim at Unawatuna beach. We checked into Janaka House first and grabbed a few baked goods before hitting the beach. That's all for now. We're off to Janaka to meet the new group who we will be working with in the morning. Jesper and I are sure we'll only stick around a few days before finding other projects of interest. I'll let you know how it goes.
Be safe and take care until next time!
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